engine paint

Painting Your Engine

SOURCE: UK LEE www.uklee.info

Good preparation & lots of light coats in a dry/warm enviroment brings perfect results. Rush things, and it will show.First step - degrease the motor using a 'high flash' solvent (one that evaporates quickly like two pack thinners) and lots of clean rags. Then mask up everywhere that needs it.

When it's done properly, it really looks smart. Glossy and smooth - just like powder coating, but at only £7.95 for a spray tin! Its just as practical too - its oil and petrol resistant and pretty tough when it comes to stone chips, etc. it also copes admirably with engine heat. I've used it on the entire motor (including the block and head) and it's never flaked off yet. Painting bare alloy with smootrite is a different story though. I painted my bare alloy big block straight out of the tin, and I thought it looked great . but when the block came back from being machined, all the paint had flaked off.So, I had to do it all over again, but this time - properly! First, same as last time - make sure everything is grease free, and mask up what you need to

Then, in a nice, clean, warm, dry (and well ventilated!!) enviroment, apply as many light coats as necessary.I usually give around 15 mins between coats. Leave it well alone overnight, then de-mask the engine, and..... Ta daa!!!.......
Then use the 'special metals primer' from hammerite. It's brush on only i'm afraid, but only costs a fiver a tin, and a little goes a long way (I only used 1/4 tin on the block with 3 coats!). Even after brushing it on - it goes on very smoothly and doesn't leave any brush marks when it's dry Once primed, do as you did with the cases. Spray light coats until its done, let it dry and removed the masking.

On this block, I gave the fins a lick over with the polishing mop once the paint had gone rock hard (about 3 days). After all that, the jobs done.

I think it looks the bolloxs, and there's no reason it shouldn't stay that way after many years of thrashing